Product Description

Easycast is an easy to use 1-to-1 ratio, two-component, clear casting epoxy. It is ideal for casting small decorative items such as jewelry, figurines, paperweights, coasters, knobs and more. Embedding or encasing items is easy and fun. Color easycast with casting' craft transparent dyes for the colored glass look or opaque pigments for solid colors.

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Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #292 in Art and Craft Supply
• Size: 8 oz
• Brand: Environmental Technology
• Model: 33008
• Dimensions: 5.75" h x 3.50" w x 1.50" l, .66 pounds

Features

• Ideal for polypropylene or rubber molds
• Is low odor
• Solvent-free
• One-to-one ratio
• Eight-ounce kit

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Customer Reviews

Most helpful customer reviews

104 of 104 people found the following review helpful.
Not perfect but a great intro to ice resin
By Amy Henry
First off, don't be scared off by magazine articles that describe the process as being super difficult. It's really very easy. I'm not sure why most bead magazines (where ice resin is trending now) make it such a big deal.

In any case, this is a two part epoxy that you mix in equal parts. For stuff like jewelry, you will be using only tiny amounts, and it's pretty hard to screw up. The first thing I did was enclose a photo in a bezel. Trick 1: use a photocopy from a laser printer, not an ink jet (not sure why but it matters). Using your printer's options, lighten up the picture somewhat more than you'd think...it will look darker in the bezel. I cut the photo strip of paper to fit, put a tiny bit of stick glue to hold it in place, and settled it at the bottom of the bezel, making sure it was all the way down. Next, I mixed the two parts (only about one lid full of each), mixed in a plastic cup with chopstick, and poured in. Trick 2: pour it where you c an leave it so you don't have to move it and slosh it around. It must be level!

It's slightly thicker than nail polish. It does take longer to dry than the product directions said. Even 48 hours in it was still sticky. Trick 3: use a tiny pin, not your finger, to test for cure (otherwise you get a thumb print). Even at that late stage though, the surface slowly evens out.

I've used it several times since, namely in putting vintage photos inside rings and spaces on copper jewelry. On deep sets, I usually fill it halfway with resin first, wait 3 days, then add the photo or object and add a new batch of resin on top. That way I think it will cure more securely.

Problems: some people get air bubbles...this has yet to happen to me. Some have their embedded objects float up...try to secure it somehow first. Some projects show a domed top to the piece...would love to figure that out but for now mine all are a perfect flat top.

O ne neat trick that some vintage jewelry designers use (those recreating old looking jewelry) is to put a few pin pricks and scratches into the top of the piece of resin towards the end of curing. Then, when fully cured, they rub a bit of black paint or black patina into the cracks and spots, wipe off, and it gives it an aged appearance.

When completely, completely dry....say a week or so, you can cut off excess with an Xacto knife and some say you can sand it...I'm chicken to do that as I like the matte finish as it is.

I hope you find this review helpful. The book SEMIPRECIOUS SALVAGE is a good place to find ideas for using this in a vintage jewelry style.

48 of 48 people found the following review helpful.
Very Pleased
By KP
I wanted to start making resin jewelry. I got this resin and a mold. It's easy to use, just follow directions. I have a lot of fun making jewelry pieces with stickers & sprinkles... I also use paper by printing designs or using things I find.

Tips:
>> Make sure to measure carefully, if not mixed right the pieces will come out gooey and will not harden.
>> No need for mold release if using a mold, I just pop the jewelry right out. I have the 'Environmental Technology Castin' Craft EasyCast Resin Jewelry Mold, 11 Popular Jewelry Shapes On One Tray' ($6.95 on Amazon). Sometimes it's tough to get them out, but just let the pieces dry a bit longer, they shrink somewhat in the drying process. I never have a problem.
>> Work in a well ventilated area. I got headaches working in my home without the windows open or a fan running - I also moved into a larger room to help and now I have no problem.
>> When using paper, fabrics, or candies make sure to coat them in Mod Podge before setting them in the resin. Mod Podge is like glue and in doing this their colors will not bleed. I use Mod Podge CS11302 Original 16-Ounce Glue, Matte Finish ($7.99 on Amazon)
>> To avoid bubbles when setting pieces, mix the resin and dip the piece(s) in it before setting it in the mold. I mix a small amount of resin and pour a very thin layer in the mold, letting it harden for a few hrs or until it's sticky, gooey sticky. I then mix another small amount of resin and dip the piece(s) in that resin. I then pour some of that newly mixed resin in the mold with the sticky resin and add the piece(s) I am setting to the newly mixed resin I just added.
>> Polishing pieces to me is pretty much unnecessary. I do however trim the edges with scissors and sometimes file them with a nail block - the four sided nail blocks found in drug stores. This smooths the edges out. The pieces come out of the mold shiny enough.

Enjoy!

29 of 30 people found the following review helpful.
Great quality and easy to use.
By Brit
This is actually a great product for the price. It's easy to mix, just make sure you follow the instructions carefully. Don't use anything that you want to use later while mixing (only use things that you are going to throw away) and don't make the mistake of washing out anything in your sink, it will leave a horrible film in your sink. Oops. But the product is great!